Saturday, November 15, 2014

Risotto Cacio e Pepe

This recipe comes from Massimo Bottura via Saveur. The dish was wonderfully creamy and the risotto had a great texture. For some reason, I really wanted to add peas and I think an added garnish of freshly made bacon crumbles would also go very well with this recipe. With the right cheese this dish is special. 

With the right cheese... boy did I learn the hard way. We have always used Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano Reggiano fairly interchangeably in my house for grating. And in small amounts they can have a very similar flavor profile. So I didn't really think twice about substituting Pecorino for the Parmigiano since my grocery store sells a very good Pecorino that I use all the time for grating as a garnish and as the cheese ingredient in Pesto. Well, that didn't turn out so well for this recipe. Pecorino is a sharper, saltier cheese emphasis on the salt, and for this recipe it was way too intense.

It was so intense that my wife and I were overwhelmed after eating about half a serving. After making this dish with Pecorino I re-read the article in Saveur, “The broth is slowly stirred into the risotto, taking the place of chicken stock, while the cream is added toward the end of cooking, giving the risotto a luxurious texture and little need for any additional salt.”

If for some reason you cannot get Parmigiano Reggiano and only have Pecorino, then I would make either a half batch of cheese broth and make up the rest with chicken broth/water or make a double batch of risotto (4 cups of rice) by making the regular amount of broth and adding 6 cups of water. That should dilute the Pecorino broth correctly for this recipe.

INGREDIENTS

FOR THE PARMESAN BROTH:

2 lbs. Parmigiano Reggiano, coarsely grated

FOR THE RISOTTO:

6 cups parmesan broth
⅓ cup parmesan cream
2 tbsp. unsalted butter
3 medium shallots, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 cups Arborio rice
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Parsley leaves, for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Make the parmesan broth: Combine parmesan and 8½ cups water in a 6-qt. saucepan over medium-low. When the cheese becomes stringy, remove from heat. Let cool to room temperature, and repeat heating once more. Refrigerate broth 8 hours or overnight. The next day, the broth should have separated into 3 distinct layers: a cream layer, on top; a broth layer, in the middle; and solids, on the bottom. Carefully remove the top cream layer and reserve. Strain the broth, discarding remaining solids (bottom layer).

2. Make the risotto: Heat broth in a 4-qt. saucepan over medium heat; set aside and keep warm. Heat butter in a 6-qt. saucepan over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic to saucepan; cook, stirring, until soft, 3 minutes. Add rice; cook 2 minutes. Add reserved stock ½ cup at a time, cooking until each addition is absorbed before adding more. Cook, stirring often, until rice is tender and creamy, about 20-22 minutes. Stir in parmesan cream and cracked pepper; garnish with parsley leaves.

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